Tag: India

Walked down the beach and hung out under an umbrella for a while. Talked to a young guy from delhi. Walked by the hotel to get wifi. Considering walking to mapusa, or part way. I get bugged for a taxi every 15 seconds so I should be able to change my mind easily. I am just in the mood to go slow. It is hot though

Lots of amazing stuff here. If I had the eye for it and the luggage space I imagine I could make a killing in the export/import business. Or someone can, anyway, I don’t think that’s my game. To me the stalls blend together as I meet wave after wave of “please look” and “good price” with “no thank you.” A guy had a really sweet drum that he could extract all sorts of sounds from, but I am not a drummer and I have no suitable bag.

Interspersed in the market are places to eat, both those set up for today and more permanent places, identifiable by the cement floor and occasional toilets. One such smelled like someone ate the same thing I did. I was glad to be out of there quickly.

The market runs right up to the beach, and I ended up next to Tantra, so says my WiFi connection. I am cooling off in the shade of a tree watching the ocean at the edge of the market. Nearby a market worker covers her mouth with a scarf to filter the small fire burning next to her. I think a man is cooking lunch?

Sitting buys no real respite from the vending. No I don’t want a selfie stick , nor a shiny coin.

I want to move on, but it is hard to pull myself away from this ocean, for what may well be the last time.

Time to wander again, I will post this bit since I have wifi

Well after a bunch more sleep I was ready to check out. I popped my azithromycin and malaria pill, and took my advair again. people smoking everywhere plus all the small engine exhaust has been rough on me.

I paid 6500 for the room plus 1200 for three days of scooter. I only used two but didn’t return it on the vomit day. It’s funny how quickly we adjust to a new normal. I didn’t spend too long arguing over the extra $6 but I didn’t let it go easily either.

I am wearing my good shoes with black socks today because I am expecting a lot of walking. I strapped the sandals to the outside of my bag. As light as it is it could always be lighter. I will definitely think over my packing list for my next trip.

I walked to GB for breakfast and ordered what has again become my new normal: luxury croissant, carrot juice, espresso. A part of me wants to be more adventurous but the long tube part of me doesn’t want to take any chances today.

I blew most of my cash on the room, so I really need to find an atm. Finding that 2000 bill helped.

There is one mosquito here trying to figure out if it wants to eat me or not. Believe it or not there have been very few around here. I expect it is because of the dry season. There are little puddles in the irregularities of the large slate tiles, so it must have rained overnight.

The plan today ends in Mapusa (pronounced mAap-sa) to catch the overnight sleeper bus to hampi. In hindsight it may have been better to meet it in Panjim, as I will not really get to see panjim this way. Oh well, I cannot see all the world, just one thing at a time. Today is Wednesday, which is the lesser of the two market days here, the other being Saturday, which I just missed on my way in. I don’t really have room to buy things, and I try to avoid collecting stuff, but it should be interesting anyway.

This town is definitely set up for scooters, but mostly it is ok for walking as long as you pay attention. There are small variety stores everywhere, so there isn’t much need to carry anything. My bag makes me more out of place than the obvious. This is definitely a tourist town so many others are equally out of place.

The money here is all different sizes and the new pink 2000 notes stand out considerably. The new 500 is a more muted color which blends in better.

Check is paid, time to leave wifi.

Well that was horrible. About the time I got back to the room I got really sick. I spent all night and most of the day in the bathroom or in bed. Fortunately I had water and electrolyte powder, and when that ran out I had a water filter. When I guessed I would be able to keep it down I took immodium and azithromycin.

The owner of the guest house came to check on me and brought water, soap and tp at my request.

After a few more hours of sleep (much better when I used earplugs) I walked to GB to get rice and juice.

I should have thought of the earplugs earlier. The election is coming up and there are cars playing advertisements from PA systems. also, there were fireworks and some kind of whistle sound, either one of the kids has an annoying toy or there is a bird that I’d like to muzzle.

Quick one here cause I am tired. After charging my phone a bit and fighting with the wifi/power I walked to Goa’s Ark. I had my most expensive meal in Goa at 960 but I had a big beer , bottle of water and two desserts to go with my amazing meal. The wifi there was good but the Moroccan red snapper was probably the best fish I have ever had and definitely the best red sauce ever, no contest. It wasn’t spicy ,just amazingly rich with chickpeas and julienned vegetables, probably pepper and or onions.

It was served with a choice of two sides so I got an Israeli salad (finely chopped cucumber and tomato with cilantro I think) and a skewer of grilled veggies. I ate the mushrooms. I still don’t like mushrooms.

I couldn’t decide between the affogato (espresso shot poured over vanilla ice cream) and the undescribed chocolate ball, so I ordered both from the owner when he asked how my meal was. The guys at the next table were friends of the owner and they laughed and told me I made an excellent choice. They were not wrong.

Kingfisher is an acceptably drinkable beverage.

The owner made a spirited phone call to a patron who had come in the night before , brought police in to get drunk and then left without paying. He was polite but clearly annoyed. “Wasn’t I nice to you? Did I do something wrong? Did I offend you? Then why you not pay the bill?” I only heard one side but I think the other guy promised to may when he is back in town.

A couple more Israeli young men showed up with packs, checked in (they have rooms as most places do) and then sat at my table (!) and ate two plates of fries (chips). I think they were trying to save money.

I asked for the bill but it took too long so I went up to pay.

Back in the room I didn’t fire up the giant metal fan. I got chilly last night. Probably 18 is a little too cold for the thin blanket, but without the wind tunnel I should be ok.

Tomorrow I will try to get up early and check out, I think.

Monday evening
I wandered around a bit on the scooter quite a bit. I actually spotted a guy whose picture I saw on couchsurfing named Ash. He had a distinctive face and was carrying big bags so I picked him out and stopped right in front of him. Weird to “recognize” someone in a foreign land. He was heading out of town so we just exchanged greetings and best wishes.

I got a bit turned around and finally shut off the bike at the pirate bar. It is a LOT quieter here today. I encountered another lady selling jewelry on the beach and offering pedicures.

The power is still out from this morning. That might explain why it is empty. I’m considering dropping off the scooter and checking out to move to another town. Maybe panjim, that is the main city.

It JUST came back on. So like 10 hours. No clue if it will stay on or what. I will probably post this part soon.

I am wondering whether travel blogging could be a thing for me. I can do my regular job from anywhere in the world, so it probably isn’t needed for income, but it is nice to connect with other people. I don’t feel I am great at that otherwise right now.

Still it is great being at the beach.

I hear t-mobile has global unlimited data. I might switch. Having to get wifi is annoying. I did get mobile data running but with verizon it is expensive.

And the power is out again. Crap.

Ok back at the room. Power off and on. Will post this asap. Then will get dinner within walking distance and plan to take a taxi to panjim tomorrow and find a place there for tomorrow night.

Unless my plans change…

I asked to stay another night since that is easier than checking out at 10am. The power went out again and I had a quick shower with the help of the drained and now nearly useless lantern. I am hoping I can pay with a card or find an atm. I have plenty of cash if I don’t have to pay for the room and scooter with it.

I walked back to the known entity, the german expat place. On the way I gave directions to an Indian guy on a scooter who was bringing a blonde European girl to her guesthouse. I have been trying to read signs to know where things are, and I remembered that Road House is just by German Bakery so it was easy. Still, it felt both weird and fun to be able to do.

There is so much smoking and coughing here despite the no smoking signs everywhere. I don’t understand how anyone can live their life coughing all the time. I guess it gives people something to do.

A kitten just walked across the roof and bits of plants fell from the reed mats. There were three kittens playing outside my room this morning too. Really there is an abundance of wildlife here, all as free roaming as the people. This place has a wall but no door, though many places share a similar hasp as my room door.

I ordered the same thing I got yesterday since I didn’t want to test what they could make without power. Carrot juice was out too so I am having o.j. I guess they have to blend it.

It has been over an hour since we lost power, and I am wondering when I can get some caffeine. There is no Turkish coffee on the menu, just espresso drinks. Lots of tea of course but I am not a fan.

I think I will try to get to vagator on the scooter today. Maybe catch a taxi to panjim in the am

And then the power went out. My phone’s screen came on which gave me enough light to get to the led lantern conveniently located on the bedside table. It’s just a hunch but I think this might have happened before.

I spent a while finishing getting dressed and then a very long time looking for my flashlight. I finally concluded that the four young girls who were trying to take my money on the beach had taken it.

THis was a group of four ornately dressed girls between about 6 and maybe 13. They said “let me show you my store” indicating a string of bangles they carry on one arm hanging from elbow to wrist. The oldest started in first, next offering a pedicure when I declined her wares. I kept fighting to keep them in front of me, which was difficult enough that I judged I was correct in my concerns.

“Don’t break my little heart” said the 8 year old, and I laughed and told her that was a good line. They moved on after I said I would visit again tomorrow, though I refused the pinky swear.

So there I was without my light and I decided to walk back to German Bakery since I figured they could probably still make food. And when I grabbed the heavy lock of course the key was clipped to my light since this key can’t be removed without locking the lock.

So, the girls are innocent, at least of that offense. Part of me feels like an ass, but I am pretty good at picking up vibes and I am pretty sure I was being cased. Sorry Ronnie, but “trust but verify” doesn’t work in crowds.

The walk was uneventful. Just a dog sleeping in the road and a couple discussing in Russian whether Magnum pi or Columbo was a better detective. Or probably something else. I couldn’t really be sure since I don’t understand any russian. Fyi the correct answer is Magnum pi, because of the Ferrari. Also the helicopter. Plus, I never really watched columbo.

The restaurant had set out candles and I ordered a minty lime drink. Basically a mojito without the mo. Or the jito. Whichever is the alcohol, it is missing that part. It’s sweet and tart and yummyrefreshing, which is a new word you get to use now.

No falafel. No hummus. The third try was an avocado tomato and feta salad.

There is a shortage of menus in this country. Even in Bangalore we seldom got more than one for the table. I can only read one menu at a time, so it is ok for tonight but I had to kung fu the waiter to keep him from taking it after I ordered the salad.

Time for foodening. There are sprouts. (Power came back on after like 20 min)

P.s. Frog was gone from under the hasp last night. I can’t verify if he came back because that isn’t my door anymore.

I found my way to the beach on my rented scooter. It is a heap but works fine. It has lights, turn signals, electric start, a goofy helmet and a “dipper”. Stay tuned if you can’t guess what that is.
I am rusty driving a motorcycle and never have driven a scooter or on the left side of the road till now. I didn’t die or mostly even almost die. I found parking at the north end of Anjuna beach.

I walked down a market row to the north, shopping for “slippers” aka sandals. Many were used but I got a pair with foam soles and leatherish straps for 500. They are marked 399. Whatever. I talked her down from 850.

Then I walked most of the way down the beach. Not overly crowded here but still plenty of people. I intended to walk all the way to the south but I spotted a place called Tantra with three tiers of padded hangout space. It amounts to a lot of shade and a great breeze. Plus spotty Wi-Fi and beer/food delivery. The Wi-Fi password is godisgreat

Milton told me the local specialty is fish curry rice so that is what I am having for 230 with an 80 rs kingfisher beer and 100rs naan. It is all good and not too spicy. There are some expats here with accents of various kinds but also lots of locals.

I sat in my treehouse all day, then walked down to the beach to watch the sunset. I took some pictures of fishermen silhouetted agaist the setting sun, then a cricket skirmish, then lots of ancient lava and the life within.

I saw a goby in a tidal pool! He shared his house with a spotted crab about the size of my palm. The goby eventually came over to say hi. I was surprised he could move from one little one-foot pool to pool to pool, but the rock was very porous and he seemed to know his way around. There were several neat macroalgae and some hermit crabs. As I made my way back to shore I found a sea cucumber and poked it to be sure I was right. If my index finger falls off, remind me of this so I don’t keep the doctor guessing.

I saw the sun dip into the ocean, but then I hurried back over the jagged rocks. My new “slippers” are much safer when dry and I had already bashed my toe and knee into the ancient lava and encapsulated metamorphic rock. I didn’t need to try it in the dark too.

I also wanted to get moving.

It took many tries to get the scooter started. I wanted to get it back to the room before it got totally dark, but I went the long way (same as the way in) by accident. I got moved to a better room, but the Wi-Fi is worse. So, not really better. I may ask to change back tomorrow.

I am resting now from the stressful ride and will probably rinse off and go for dinner.
Almost all the photos are on my real camera and I don’t have any way to get them off the sd card till Bangalore.

I totally forgot to even test the dipper, which is a switch to turn the headlight beam high or low.