Category: Travel

  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 10 – Tuesday in Anjuna

    Well that was horrible. About the time I got back to the room I got really sick. I spent all night and most of the day in the bathroom or in bed. Fortunately I had water and electrolyte powder, and when that ran out I had a water filter. When I guessed I would be able to keep it down I took immodium and azithromycin.

    The owner of the guest house came to check on me and brought water, soap and tp at my request.

    After a few more hours of sleep (much better when I used earplugs) I walked to GB to get rice and juice.

    I should have thought of the earplugs earlier. The election is coming up and there are cars playing advertisements from PA systems. also, there were fireworks and some kind of whistle sound, either one of the kids has an annoying toy or there is a bird that I’d like to muzzle.

  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 9 – Monday night, Anjuna

    Quick one here cause I am tired. After charging my phone a bit and fighting with the wifi/power I walked to Goa’s Ark. I had my most expensive meal in Goa at 960 but I had a big beer , bottle of water and two desserts to go with my amazing meal. The wifi there was good but the Moroccan red snapper was probably the best fish I have ever had and definitely the best red sauce ever, no contest. It wasn’t spicy ,just amazingly rich with chickpeas and julienned vegetables, probably pepper and or onions.

    It was served with a choice of two sides so I got an Israeli salad (finely chopped cucumber and tomato with cilantro I think) and a skewer of grilled veggies. I ate the mushrooms. I still don’t like mushrooms.

    I couldn’t decide between the affogato (espresso shot poured over vanilla ice cream) and the undescribed chocolate ball, so I ordered both from the owner when he asked how my meal was. The guys at the next table were friends of the owner and they laughed and told me I made an excellent choice. They were not wrong.

    Kingfisher is an acceptably drinkable beverage.

    The owner made a spirited phone call to a patron who had come in the night before , brought police in to get drunk and then left without paying. He was polite but clearly annoyed. “Wasn’t I nice to you? Did I do something wrong? Did I offend you? Then why you not pay the bill?” I only heard one side but I think the other guy promised to may when he is back in town.

    A couple more Israeli young men showed up with packs, checked in (they have rooms as most places do) and then sat at my table (!) and ate two plates of fries (chips). I think they were trying to save money.

    I asked for the bill but it took too long so I went up to pay.

    Back in the room I didn’t fire up the giant metal fan. I got chilly last night. Probably 18 is a little too cold for the thin blanket, but without the wind tunnel I should be ok.

    Tomorrow I will try to get up early and check out, I think.

  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 9 – Monday evening in Anjuna

    Monday evening
    I wandered around a bit on the scooter quite a bit. I actually spotted a guy whose picture I saw on couchsurfing named Ash. He had a distinctive face and was carrying big bags so I picked him out and stopped right in front of him. Weird to “recognize” someone in a foreign land. He was heading out of town so we just exchanged greetings and best wishes.

    I got a bit turned around and finally shut off the bike at the pirate bar. It is a LOT quieter here today. I encountered another lady selling jewelry on the beach and offering pedicures.

    The power is still out from this morning. That might explain why it is empty. I’m considering dropping off the scooter and checking out to move to another town. Maybe panjim, that is the main city.

    It JUST came back on. So like 10 hours. No clue if it will stay on or what. I will probably post this part soon.

    I am wondering whether travel blogging could be a thing for me. I can do my regular job from anywhere in the world, so it probably isn’t needed for income, but it is nice to connect with other people. I don’t feel I am great at that otherwise right now.

    Still it is great being at the beach.

    I hear t-mobile has global unlimited data. I might switch. Having to get wifi is annoying. I did get mobile data running but with verizon it is expensive.

    And the power is out again. Crap.

    Ok back at the room. Power off and on. Will post this asap. Then will get dinner within walking distance and plan to take a taxi to panjim tomorrow and find a place there for tomorrow night.

    Unless my plans change…

  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 9 – Vagator

    The scooter wouldn’t start. Turns out the fuel gauge isn’t broken. The good news is petrol is available every where here. You know how they say never to carry gasoline in anything but an approved container? Turns out big water bottles work just fine. I got 1 liter and the guy from the room helped me start the bike. Then I rode it down and got another liter and returned the bottle. It is 80 per liter here.

    I made it to vagator on the first try by basically guessing. I haven’t seen much signage.

    Vagator is smaller and the sand is darker. There are cows on the beach and only a couple of bars. I still have been unable to get coffee but they have cold beer which seems close enough.

    I got accosted by an ear wax guy. He said I had soap on my ear and since I had just put on sunscreen in the dark bathroom I thanked him and tried to fix it. He offered to help and then I saw the metal tool he showed me with “ear wax” on it. All snapped into focus any I said no no no and walked away from him.

    I am at a place called “bar” which has a cement foundation about 8 feet up off the beach with wide wooden steps to get up the front. Wooden poles with tracks of prior underbark insect infestations support a now familiar thatched roof, this one made of much larger panels than those at GB

    There are maybe 20 beach chairs in front, mostly taken by light skinned folks under large umbrellas. They are set in pairs with low mismatched wooden tables between. All the Indians go into the water in their clothes, but the white people shed shirts and small bikinis are common on the women. Nothing too racy but there are plenty of nice butts without much on them. A young guy with a modern haircut with bleached tips bounds up and down them frequently bringing beers and colorful drinks to them.

    Plenty of watersports are available, just as in Anjuna. Here though there is an overlooking hill which truncates the beach.

    There is much less of a hippy vibe here and much less commerce. There is a commercial street full of small stands but nothing on the beach.

    The cow lying in the beach in front of me is a chocolate brown with small horns and a big hump. I have seen all different sorts here. Fortunately they are completely indifferent to humans who keep their distance. I am not clear of their motivation at all really. There is nothing for them to eat or drink. One has been standing in the same spot for 20 min

    I ordered chicken Momo. There were many kinds but I asked for a recommendation and am going with it. Other than being chicken and small that is all I know about it so far

    Lots of places here serve pomfret. I don’t know what that is either other than a town in Connecticut.

    The menu tells me that “bar” is actually Pinakin Cafe, and there is a picture of the trident stuck in the sea rocks out front. So I am guessing Pinakin is an Indian Poseidon. Not having internet makes it easier to make things up. Also tridents are cool. If I pull it from the rocks I get to be king of india, I expect. Or arrested, maybe.

    Many men here are rocking fedoras or cowboy hats without looking douchy. Women tend to have wider and floppier hats. There is the occasional baseball cap but it is hardly the uniform here.

    The rocks are different from Anjuna despite being only a few km north of there. I will go check them out after lunch but I am not expecting the same sort of biome.

    Momo is dumplings, served hot with a dipping sauce. Similar to Gyoza.

    After a brief walk on the beach, a couple photos and two more ear wax guys I hopped on the scooter and accidentally went to a working fishing beach which is in an inlet behind the old fort before finding the right way with a helpful point from sitting ladies.

    Chapora fort is just a wall now, made of small blocks of porous volcanic rock, apparently from the Anjuna flow. These blocks are hand stacked three deep to form a palisade wall . I think that’s the right word. Regardless it is minimally crennelated, a word I probably spelled wrong. There is a single lookout post remaining from the same style as el morro in san juan, and probably many other places I haven’t been.

    There is some garbage and broken glass and many wayward sandals. I can’t imagine how much it would suck to walk down barefoot. There is only one sign claiming ownership and no information at all. There are however vendor carts selling bottled water with increasingly effective sales pitches. Namely “bottled water?” But each time sounding like a better idea as my calves burned on the steep slope. I had parked far below for 10rs as there are no vehicles permitted.

    Mostly it is a big open area with lots of great views of the beaches and the river. Pretty much exactly the right place for a fort, provided there was a way to get water up here.

    Time to head down, no plan yet. Maybe dinner at Anjuna beach

  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 9 – Monday morning in Goa

    I asked to stay another night since that is easier than checking out at 10am. The power went out again and I had a quick shower with the help of the drained and now nearly useless lantern. I am hoping I can pay with a card or find an atm. I have plenty of cash if I don’t have to pay for the room and scooter with it.

    I walked back to the known entity, the german expat place. On the way I gave directions to an Indian guy on a scooter who was bringing a blonde European girl to her guesthouse. I have been trying to read signs to know where things are, and I remembered that Road House is just by German Bakery so it was easy. Still, it felt both weird and fun to be able to do.

    There is so much smoking and coughing here despite the no smoking signs everywhere. I don’t understand how anyone can live their life coughing all the time. I guess it gives people something to do.

    A kitten just walked across the roof and bits of plants fell from the reed mats. There were three kittens playing outside my room this morning too. Really there is an abundance of wildlife here, all as free roaming as the people. This place has a wall but no door, though many places share a similar hasp as my room door.

    I ordered the same thing I got yesterday since I didn’t want to test what they could make without power. Carrot juice was out too so I am having o.j. I guess they have to blend it.

    It has been over an hour since we lost power, and I am wondering when I can get some caffeine. There is no Turkish coffee on the menu, just espresso drinks. Lots of tea of course but I am not a fan.

    I think I will try to get to vagator on the scooter today. Maybe catch a taxi to panjim in the am

  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 8 – Sunday night in Goa

    And then the power went out. My phone’s screen came on which gave me enough light to get to the led lantern conveniently located on the bedside table. It’s just a hunch but I think this might have happened before.

    I spent a while finishing getting dressed and then a very long time looking for my flashlight. I finally concluded that the four young girls who were trying to take my money on the beach had taken it.

    THis was a group of four ornately dressed girls between about 6 and maybe 13. They said “let me show you my store” indicating a string of bangles they carry on one arm hanging from elbow to wrist. The oldest started in first, next offering a pedicure when I declined her wares. I kept fighting to keep them in front of me, which was difficult enough that I judged I was correct in my concerns.

    “Don’t break my little heart” said the 8 year old, and I laughed and told her that was a good line. They moved on after I said I would visit again tomorrow, though I refused the pinky swear.

    So there I was without my light and I decided to walk back to German Bakery since I figured they could probably still make food. And when I grabbed the heavy lock of course the key was clipped to my light since this key can’t be removed without locking the lock.

    So, the girls are innocent, at least of that offense. Part of me feels like an ass, but I am pretty good at picking up vibes and I am pretty sure I was being cased. Sorry Ronnie, but “trust but verify” doesn’t work in crowds.

    The walk was uneventful. Just a dog sleeping in the road and a couple discussing in Russian whether Magnum pi or Columbo was a better detective. Or probably something else. I couldn’t really be sure since I don’t understand any russian. Fyi the correct answer is Magnum pi, because of the Ferrari. Also the helicopter. Plus, I never really watched columbo.

    The restaurant had set out candles and I ordered a minty lime drink. Basically a mojito without the mo. Or the jito. Whichever is the alcohol, it is missing that part. It’s sweet and tart and yummyrefreshing, which is a new word you get to use now.

    No falafel. No hummus. The third try was an avocado tomato and feta salad.

    There is a shortage of menus in this country. Even in Bangalore we seldom got more than one for the table. I can only read one menu at a time, so it is ok for tonight but I had to kung fu the waiter to keep him from taking it after I ordered the salad.

    Time for foodening. There are sprouts. (Power came back on after like 20 min)

    P.s. Frog was gone from under the hasp last night. I can’t verify if he came back because that isn’t my door anymore.

  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 8 – Afternoon in Goa

    I found my way to the beach on my rented scooter. It is a heap but works fine. It has lights, turn signals, electric start, a goofy helmet and a “dipper”. Stay tuned if you can’t guess what that is.
    I am rusty driving a motorcycle and never have driven a scooter or on the left side of the road till now. I didn’t die or mostly even almost die. I found parking at the north end of Anjuna beach.

    I walked down a market row to the north, shopping for “slippers” aka sandals. Many were used but I got a pair with foam soles and leatherish straps for 500. They are marked 399. Whatever. I talked her down from 850.

    Then I walked most of the way down the beach. Not overly crowded here but still plenty of people. I intended to walk all the way to the south but I spotted a place called Tantra with three tiers of padded hangout space. It amounts to a lot of shade and a great breeze. Plus spotty Wi-Fi and beer/food delivery. The Wi-Fi password is godisgreat

    Milton told me the local specialty is fish curry rice so that is what I am having for 230 with an 80 rs kingfisher beer and 100rs naan. It is all good and not too spicy. There are some expats here with accents of various kinds but also lots of locals.

    I sat in my treehouse all day, then walked down to the beach to watch the sunset. I took some pictures of fishermen silhouetted agaist the setting sun, then a cricket skirmish, then lots of ancient lava and the life within.

    I saw a goby in a tidal pool! He shared his house with a spotted crab about the size of my palm. The goby eventually came over to say hi. I was surprised he could move from one little one-foot pool to pool to pool, but the rock was very porous and he seemed to know his way around. There were several neat macroalgae and some hermit crabs. As I made my way back to shore I found a sea cucumber and poked it to be sure I was right. If my index finger falls off, remind me of this so I don’t keep the doctor guessing.

    I saw the sun dip into the ocean, but then I hurried back over the jagged rocks. My new “slippers” are much safer when dry and I had already bashed my toe and knee into the ancient lava and encapsulated metamorphic rock. I didn’t need to try it in the dark too.

    I also wanted to get moving.

    It took many tries to get the scooter started. I wanted to get it back to the room before it got totally dark, but I went the long way (same as the way in) by accident. I got moved to a better room, but the Wi-Fi is worse. So, not really better. I may ask to change back tomorrow.

    I am resting now from the stressful ride and will probably rinse off and go for dinner.
    Almost all the photos are on my real camera and I don’t have any way to get them off the sd card till Bangalore.

    I totally forgot to even test the dipper, which is a switch to turn the headlight beam high or low.

  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 8 – Morning in Goa

    I dragged myself out of bed and had a shower in the bathroom. This seems oddly phrased, but there isn’t a shower per se, just a shower head and a floor drain. I had the sense to remove the tp from the bathroom first.
    Outside I met my host and agreed on a price for tonight.  It is too early for me to want to deal with changing places.  I figured 2000 is probably too much but it is cheaper than the online rate, and besides I found a 2000 bill on the road on my walk home last night.  That easily tops the 100 I found in cubbon park
    I walked down the street, following a cow to get breakfast at German Bakery, which is an exact recreation of a famous Munich bakery, except for everything.  From rattan chair I ordered an espresso, a carrot juice, a croissant with egg and tomato, and the wifi code..  a big german shepherd wanders around here, so maybe he is the baker.
    On the street side is a high stucco wall and overhead are welcome reed shades supported by bamboo.  Many cloth lanterns and decorative fabrics in red blue and yellow hang in stripes.  A brick oven runs constantly and a counter offers baked goods and coffee drinks.  There are plenty of waiters so perhaps this is a to-go counter
    There is a table of german hippies rolling and smoking cones. Perhaps this is the German expat spot, and maybe the owner is here.  On the way in is scooter parking and a small shop, and at the back is another shop with professionally printed banners offering spa services.  Bathrooms are against the big wall but the one sink is outside.I think there may be rooms behind. In another life I might own a place exactly like this.
  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 7 – Done with work, off to Goa

    Hung out with David for breakfast in the hotel, then had lunch at the place in the mall. The central staircase between the escalators was blocked in several places by store displays. Probably not a giant fire hazard at all. Safety third, right?

    We dodged the usual tuk tuk drivers and found another atm around the corner. I took out a relatively large amout of cash , 10000 twice, then paid david back the 2000 I borrowed to cover two thirds of my bus and train tickets.

    Back at the hotel we had another of our spirited debates, working to find common ground and both hoping for the best from Cheeto Hitler. David will hang on to my laptop and associated gear to lighten my load in Goa. I chose not to ditch anything else, so I have no excuse if I don’t use something. I am testing out my packing list, basically.

    I worked on reorganizing my bag a bit and managed to get the Pilot inside the Sky Train, but after Raju’s typical hectic ride to the airport, I found it was overweight for one bag so they asked me to carry it as two, as if that somehow makes it lighter.

    They also talked me into 550 rupees for the lounge access.

    Up the stairs to security I found the typical abundance of staff. 4 guys behind the scanner and one using a hand metal detector on everyone who goes through the big one, which I am fully convinced just is a motion detector, since it beeped with nothing in my pockets.

    Despite my pleadings they didn’t want to let me keep the tsa approved multitool. So they suggested going back down and checking my bag. They cancelled my boarding pass and I sheepishly approached the same AirAsia lady back downstairs. We removed my cables and chargers from the redoxx and checked it in.

    After security I went straight to the lounge.

    The first time up into the lounge I went in the exit and the staff didn’t notice. I charged my phone, booked an airbnb in Anjuna and had a paneer dosa and water in a tiny 200 ml bottle. My free wifi expired so I figured it was time for a change of pace.

    I walked around the airport to find my gate and though it was fine it was a little crowded and would have been hard to find a seat. So I went back up to the lounge and this time had to show my proof of purchase , and they took a photo of my boarding pass on a pocket camera. They did however give me a ticket with a code and a scratch off pin for 24h wifi

    This time I grabbed a really comfy leatherish recliner and plugged in again. I finalized some details of my evening and jos and I talked over chat, then tried video and settled on phone, all over fb messenger. The bose noise cancelling headphones made it easy and comfortable. I grabbed another paneer dosa in a napkin and headed for my gate.

    There were three boarding zones but no announcement so I just boarded when the line started moving. There were 5 or 6 people who each checked my boarding pass on the way down the ramp! You would think they could all just stand together since they were accomplishing nothing by rechecking the same thing.

    The a380 is 3 and 3 seats, with different colored seat covers in the first 5 rows, possibly identifying an apparently pointless higher class.

    Once I realized I lost wifi I flipped through the in-flight magazine which was mostly about Malaysia and other places AirAsia flies. Lots of pretty pictures of empty beaches mostly. I wonder how hard it was to clear all the inevitable people for the photo shoot.

    I paid 100 for some snack mix, figuring it might come in handy later. I always worry about getting hungry late at night and not having a way to deal with it.

    The airport in goa was pretty uneventful, though the smell of the bathroom was the worst one so far. No attendant and I didn’t waste any time before moving on.

    The taxi drivers greeted me in a chorus and I had heard there was conflict between the official taxis and the others. I named my destination of Anjuna and expected price competition but the two men stuck at 1500. They both took me away but the younger said “do you want to go with him or me”. The older one was a little more convincing so I went with him. He later said he was an official taxi and they have had trouble with the new people

    On we went and my driver made a brief stop to chat with another driver about the evening since both were taking their last runs. Milton told me about his three kids, showing me a photo of them in what I did confirm were Santa hats. The crucifix on the dashboard helped my guess too. I mentioned there are so many things we don’t know before we go someplace and that I am trying not to offend anyone. He was easygoing with a laugh which came frequently. Another stop for a bit of petrol and on again. Passing more villages on roads less crowded and and in better condition than the ones in Bangalore. At least the “highways” were where he got up over 100 kph.I think he was showing off. There are a lot of SLOW vehicles on the roads.

    He said he had three beers but he was no crazier than anyone else on the road. The small roads however are much worse than Bangalore, which is a terrifying statement.

    First it was mostly rural but then we went through several towns with lots of restaurants and large well lit shops. Once we hit anjuna it suddenly turned into a tiny village with twisting roads too small for one car, let alone two, yet somehow my driver had no trouble.

    We found my rooming house which seems serviceable but sparse. The guy provided tp and a towel. The room is old and worn but not disgusting to me. There is one outlet which works. A wire from omething from outside goes through the window and is plugged into the bathroom outlet.

    I got the wifi working and waited two minutes for the ac to be ready to turn on after the switch was thrown. The ac had a remote which was brought with the other supplies and a requested water bottle. I shut the bathroom door because the window is open due to the aforementioned wire. There is also a loud and unbalanced ceiling fan and a night light.

    I had planned to turn in for the night but changed my mind. I locked the big heavy hasp with the probided padlock, first verifying I had the right key. Also I confirmed the frog under the hasp was indeed alive, despite his overall indifference to the hasp and myself. He’s like “dude I live here , you’ll be gone tomorrow”

    It is interesting how it looks here. The closest comparison for me is puerto rico but that is probably due to my lack of experience with this sort of thing. Still, old tropical former European colonies probably share more than not.

    I walked most of the way to Curlie’s which is one of the more well known nightlife spots. The road had a soft dirt shoulder and I just barely stopped myself from falling into a hole as I dodged vehicles. The local dogs are abundant but also indifferent as though they know they are at the beach.

    I passed one large family but otherwise I was the only pedestrian. As i got nearby a taxi driver told me the party was over and I should go to lilliput or some place that starred with an S where a lot of russians go. Lilliput was closer and I paid 200 which was probably a lot for a half a km walk but I was glad not to have to backtrack. I probably could have gotten there faster if i walked the beach, but I had no idea where it was till we got close.

    Lilliput was also shutting down, as I had just arrived after last call. I passed the barren dance floor and bar area but the terraced seating leading to the beach seemed relatively busy. Groups of either couples or a half dozen young men huddle around folding tables with an unfamiliar design. Most tables have a hooka containing fragrant tobacco being shared.

    A large garbage can overfilled with beer bottles shows why so many cars and scooters were leaving here. Also it explains why a team effort was being applied at one table to help a guy consume a large bottle of water

    Two vendors with blinking and glowing things, plus a dangerously wielded green laser wander back and forth wishing there were a party.

    Milton had told me that the groups of police by the road in a couple of spots were for the election. I had seen election signs in Bangalore but didn’t know if the number of khaki uniformed police there was normal. Many wear a hat similar to a cowboy hat but with one side pinned up. I’m sure there is a name for it.

    I asked why there are police for the election if it is not tonight, and he explained it is to reduce corruption. Apparently politicians or their agents drive around giving cash or alcohol to buy votes and somehow the police standing around by the road can stop this. They aren’t searching cars though so I am not sure what mechanism is expected to work.

    Regardless the presence of police has universally been blamed for the lack of parties going on by all of the few people I have spoken to. Apparently this area is known for it but I am unlucky to be here now.

    I don’t really need a raging party but I am feeling a bit alone here on the comfortable blue cushion on the stone terrace, listening to the crash of the ocean yards away and the laughter and chatter of those around me.

    Tables are being folded up, and I finished my seafood pasta, which was clams, calamari and tiny prawns with a red sauce and ziti. 490 including another huge bottle of water and the credit card worked.

    It is hot and muggy but ok at night. I wonder if the heat of the day will seem oppressive. Milton told about the 4 months of monsoon (it rains all the time, sometimes very hard… But the river doesn’t rise?) And I told him about our cold winter. It is winter here too which means 99 instead of 105. He says he has never worn a sweater or jacket.

    Aaaand now I am writing from the firm foam bed in the room. The frog was still there. It smells a bit like cat pee which is probably better than rats. Come to think of it I should move the bag off the floor. I have seen a few rats outide and the local cat really wanted to come in here.

    Speaking of animals,I was pursued by a pack of dogs on the walk back, but after ignoring their barks for a few hundred feet I snapped back at them with a stern shout and they dispersed. The next pack of large puppies was stopped dead in their tracks by my flashlight beam. I can see why no one walks.

    Bedtime for me, it is 2 am. This is a bit disjointed probably as I wrote it in a few sessions but i will post it anyway.

  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 1 – Boston to Dubai to Bangalore

    I was in the air when Trump was inaugurated on an Emirates 777-300. I had a window seat, so I got to see russia and Scandinavia. We crossed between the black sea and the Caspian, I think, then over Iran and the gulf. The sun rose and the gulf was peppered with hundreds of ships of all sizes and descriptions.

    Overnight I slept about an hour and otherwise watched the new Ghostbusters, which was better than expected, and felt more like an homage than a remake at times. I saw Guardians of the Galaxy, which was pretty great. They had an eclectic mix once you got past the new releases, and I finally saw Spinal Tap. I wrapped up with Finding Dory, which was cute.

    I had expected to need the dozens of podcasts I had downloaded to my phone, or my kindle, but the entertainment system was amazing. There were 5000 “channels” apparently but once I found the movies I just stuck to that. They had limited live tv, and scrolling headlines, which I was trying to avoid. I think there was Wi-Fi but I only messed with it for a couple of seconds. I still enjoy the disconnection that is becoming increasingly rare and enjoy it when I can.

    I took some bad photos and a video from my phone during landing in Dubai, trying to spot the Burj on the way in. It turns out I was facing the wrong way but I saw a landscape totally unfamiliar to me. The airport itself is enormously long, with three matching terminals in a line. They are each giant buildings with floor to ceiling windows shaped like elongated diamonds. I wondered about their AC bill. I did spot the Burj as we taxied.

    I cleared security again on the way in, after a brief disagreement about my tiny multi-tool. Then I made my way up the stairs to the main terminal. I put my belt back on and THEN realized I had left my work laptop in the xray tray. I ran back down and it was still in the tray.

    With that heart attack averted I went back up, and sorted things back into their various pockets before wandering around the terminal and deciding to go to the other one to kill the next few hours of layover.

    Banks of huge glass elevators run constantly down to the train which also bounced back and forth. A woman spilled a drink but somehow had enough paper towels handy to clean it up. Really everything was very clean and organized. The third floor seemed to contain the lounge for those with status, and a hotel. The sides of the huge walls provided views up and down with glass walls serving as balconies.

    The thing that struck me most was the amazing variety of dress in the airport. We have all seen the Saudi style of flowing white, but I had forgotten many of the diverse outfits I had seen in various media, and there were many more still that were new to me. I wanted to photograph them all but my agenda was to mind my own business and avoid an international incident. I was particularly aware of the Orange Hitler and wondered how many others had the same thought as they saw me.

    I found my gate and verified then looked for nearby restaurants. After wandering past a few places including a steak house with a US style western theme, I sat down at a place called Giraffe.

    There were several good meals on the flight, but I needed to kill a few hours so I started with coffee. They didn’t have drip, only the annoyingly named and functionality deficient Americano, so was only after I had a latte that I noticed there was turkish coffee available at a place across the walkway. The attendant there was subtly dancing to the pop music being played as he worked.

    I had a Croque Giraffe, since that was a specialty, which had turkey ham, beef chorizo an egg and a ton of cheese over pretty decent bread. The crust was a bit tough and the blunt (but metal!) knife had trouble with it. It was delicious, and the small potato wedges were well seasoned. They had a wide array of condiments in a wooden box with a handle, like a tool box. I chose heinz without looking too much. In hindsight I probably should have been more curious but my overwhelming feeling was exhaustion since it was my bedtime.

    I still had some time before the flight, so I visited the restroom. The wooden doors on the stalls reached an inch from the floor so I didn’t spot the squat toilet till the door opened. It was steel and had an automatic flush the whole floor was wet. It is probably TMI but although I squatted my body was apparently not ready to fully unlock this achievement. I spotted a huge Gshock watch hanging on a peg but forgot to bring it to the lost and found. I think I saw the guy before me come back in as I was leaving, so maybe he got it back. I try to avoid eye contact in men’s restrooms, and also in foreign countries, so I wasn’t sure, but I was definitely sure it was not my problem at that point.

    I went in again after a while to brush my teeth, not sure of the water quality, but I took my chances and didn’t swallow any. On returning my fellow passengers were lining up, but I wasn’t sure if it was general boarding yet. I got in the back of the line anyway and chatted with an indian guy whose name I didn’t get. He had come from Dallas and his friends had sent him with rupees to exchange for the new notes. We made our way down to the lower level and then into another waiting room, with enough seats for the whole plane as well as a restroom.

    I decided to sit near him and we continued our chat. I got confirmation of how to pronounce Hampi, and agreement that it was a good choice, and a good place to bring cash..We talked about the cash economy and while I had heard most of what was going on already, it was interesting to hear about the demonitization. He let me photograph the two “bad” denominations of notes, which I wanted to have handy in case someone tried to pass them off in change.

    We went down a long access path to board, but this time first class had their own entrance. The plane was the same type as before, but the entertainment system was different, with an even bigger screen and a game controller which could pop out. I took pictures as we circled, marveling first at the artificial islands, then the Burj and that hotel from the tennis comercial, next at the bustling city, then at the many palace compounds in the desert. The compounds got less palace-like as the dunes increased in size. There were huge areas with removed sand and flat bottoms, and I wasn’t sure if this was a sand mine or something else.

    Next we passed over the mountains of Oman, which reminded me of flying to las vegas. I watched the end of the Arabian peninsula go by before turning Captain America, Winter Soldier back on. I pulled out my pillow to sleep, but food appeared so I dealt with that instead. This menu was more limited, with a choice of a curry chicken or vegetarian. I had the chicken and it was good. I avoided the beet based dessert because I think I am allergic to them and didn’t want to test it. They ran out of vegetarian dishes and the guy in front of me had sone extra discussions with the apologetic flight attendant. Emirates sure had a good hiring policy, with very pretty hosts with many different accents. Our french pilot bragged that the crew was from eleven countries and spoke ten languages.

    The Bangalore airport was less impressive but functional. I went through security yet again, but the lady running the xray machine wasn’t paying attention and at least 3 bags went through while she was asking one man to bring his bag over. Nearly everyone beeped going through the metal detector and with no attendant there everyone sort of shrugged and kept walking. I didn’t beep but shrugged anyway.

    There were plenty of porters standing around though clearly identified by their vests. I ignored them and got my small checked bag and was greeted by name by what I thought was my driver. He brought me about a hundred feet to meet my driver, who had a sign with my name on it. I tipped the first guy with $3 which was probably way too much.

    The driver also tried to carry my bag, and both were confused by my small luggage. We chatted as he terrifyingly navigated what was sometimes a 3 lane road (usually with four cars abreast and a motorcycle or two) and sometimes a city street with SPEED BUMPS. I wanted to photograph the many shops but my cell camera wasn’t having it, and I didn’t want to break out my bigger camera.

    Nearing the hotel I mentioned I needed a SIM card and the driver offered to take me to get one. We ended up at his “brother’s” shop where I exchanged $40 at a passable rate and fought off efforts to sell me scarves, rugs, jewelry, etc. The SIM guy showed up and took me aside to discuss pricing. The first offer was like 2000 and there was way too much back and forth about minutes and data and I was pretty much done. I realized this deal was turning out to be pretty shady and apologized for wasting his time before jumping back in the car with the driver.

    The hotel staff opened the back of the large car looking for luggage and many others tried to help me with my bags. At the front desk I was greeted by name and checked in. I was walked to my room and showed the amenities, including the schedule of every restaurant. I was more concerned with the dance party going on outside and decided I would need to stay up a few more hours.

    I had a shower and tried to meet up with my team but settled on dining alone on some excellent italian food after confusing the staff by looking for them. They showed up for a drink and I gave up fighting the Wi-Fi.

    After dinner I did get it working and had a call with Jos and fell asleep.