Category: Travel

  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 20 – Friday evening, heading home

    After a marathon session of training the team at work I spent almost two hours in the car on the way to dinner.  Fortunately Sachin had arranged for us to meet while driving, to make the most of our final hours together.  

    We went to Puma Social Club, which is apparently the official club of the Puma sports brand.  We went up a tiny elevator to a sleek multi-floor facility of glass, wood and chrome to the roof deck.  We ate at a long low table with chairs in front and a long couch behind.  We were a good sized group including my team, one of the other teams and a few managers.

    Food arrived in a steady stream of tapas, both veg and non. Conversion arrived similarly, but that was all non veg.  I was flattered by some interesting gifts for me and for my girlfriend.  The latter was particularly charming. Perhaps they are trying to butter her up to join me next time.  Regardless, she will appreciate them, as do I.  I just hope everything I could fit in my small bag will survive.  I have high hopes for the last one which David will bring with him later, as it is in its original foam packing.  

    One of my team offered to drive me to the airport. I was reluctant to accept since I knew I had to shower, change and pack at the room, and though I rushed I still felt bad for how long I took.  The ride was pleasant and we chatted along the way.

    I nearly went through the wrong security gate at the airport but I saw a European eyeing a sign which drew my attention in the same direction to an arrow for international gates.  We agreed to head that way and chatted in the long but fast moving immigration line.  Really it should be called emigration or just the GTFO line.  Stamp stamp, the then on to a different guy to check for the stamp (because India) then on to security.  Again through the motion detector disguised as a metal detector before the wand scan.  I didn’t see where the physicist programmer from Dusseldorf went, but he will be on my first flight.

    This trip I put my multitool into my Sky Train and checked it to avoid hassles by security.  I had to determine what exactly was meant by gadgets, and separated out my laptop, Kindle and phone, guessing that the headphones were nongadgets.

    I packed my liquids in the checked bag too, but remembered to put Saturday’s malaria pill in an accessible pocket.  My Hospete bites started to itch a reminder last night and continue to do so today.

    I have thus far opted against paying for the lounge.  I think the cushy leather seats will just spoil me for the flights.  Also this would be the international lounge and it might be different.  So after laughing at the ridiculously priced crappy beers, including the ~600rs Corona, I plopped down in the middle of an open area, full of people whose complexion mostly matches mine.  Recall a beer in Goa was 80, but we’re not in Goa anymore, Toto.

    I have about 1400 left, and have thought about another bite to eat or a drink since my body is confused about what time it is in the brightly lit airport.  In Dubai I ate to stay awake, here I am considering eating because I don’t know what to do with the next hour or so.  I am not sure if there is wifi but if so I will try to post this.

    I shared the link to this blog with a couple of guys so I expect the whole team has it by now.  They will notice I didn’t talk about work much, but they were there for that part, so they don’t need to read about it.  Also my original intent was simply posting occasional updates about my trip to let my friends know I hadn’t died yet.  I didn’t really intend to release it but after so many requests I figured it would be OK. I hope people like it.  As I said to some, it is often written as a stream of consciousness, or sometimes just in parts, so I am sure it lacks coherency, and some stuff is probably outright incorrect. 

    I am definitely going to try to edit my gear list when I get back. There wasn’t anything I was missing, and there were things I didn’t use.  I think I had a pretty good amount of clothes, it was nice being able to wash infrequently, and I felt like I stayed pretty clean even on my vacation week when I wore one pair of shorts all week.  They are Outlier New Way and the material is pretty amazing.  I did miss the chance to have someone sew a loop inside the pocket to clip keys to.  I used my belt loop and one of the Tom Bihn keystraps, but it was always nicer using the loop inside the Bluffworks pants.  

    Overall my favorite long pants are still the Thunderbolt Sportswear ones, but I would like to try the Outlier long pants sometime.  The Bluffworks have great features and look dressy but they do wrinkle and stay that way even through a hand wash.  I’m sure I would have been fine in just Bluffworks too, but the stretchiness of the Scholler Dryskin in the Thunderbolts is super comfy and they are very soft inside.  They are definitely warmer though, which is why I was in shorts all week in Goa and Hampi.

    I still love my Tilley hemp hat for the sun.  I washed it yesterday to get the sweat out of it and hung it up to dry today.  The rubber clothesline with a carabinier was great, and the stopper was indispensable.  Yes I could have paid for laundry more often, but I enjoy self sufficiency.  

    I wrote more than I expected so I am going to post this before the free wifi runs out.  Wish me luck sleeping on the planes. 

  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 20 – Friday Morning – last day in BLR

    So, I did a blog thing.  Yesterday before work (and a bit last night, and again this morning) I set up a wordpress site, which is where you’ll be reading this.  Prior to this update I’d done everything on Facebook as updates just for my friends, but I keep getting asked by others here to see it, and I figure one or two things I said might be entertaining outside my circle of friends, so here you go.  Of course I had to do it the hard way, with hosting and such.  I hope people enjoy it.  Maybe it will inspire me to write more or travel more or both.  I plan to go back into these posts and edit them to include photos, and maybe add some detail here  and  there.

    Today is going to be a  really long day.  I’ve got a lot to do at work, then the guys are taking me out for a party/dinner.  Around midnight I’ll come to the hotel, shower, change, pack and head to the airport.  The flight is around 4am to Dubai, then a 1:45 layover and another long flight home.  I really hope I’ll be able to sleep on the plane.

    Last night we went to Vapour, a rooftop brewpub.  I had a flight of  beers including a Basmati beer, which actually tasted like basmati!  It was very light though and not my style, so I wouldn’t order it again, but I was glad to have a few ounces of it.   The others were an OK ale, a “premium” which I didn’t like, and a stout which was quite good.  We also continued our trend of trying and sharing appetizers/tapas and had paneer tikka Zafrani, whose skewers were intermixed with bell peppers.  We also had really amazing chicken tikka Hyderabadi, that were very juicy.

    We also had Mutton Galouti Kebab, which was a tender patty on top of a triangle of thin bread.  I tried eating it with a knife but the bread was tough and I decided it was finger food.  We had asked for “less spicy” and got what we wanted.

    A soccer match was on TV but it was Dortmund against someone else in Europe and no one was watching  It was 1-1 and we remarked that soccer would be a lot more fun to watch with more scoring.  Maybe they should make the goal bigger.

    I walked back from Vapour which was about 3/4 mile in a straight line down 100 feet rd, which sounds silly until you realize it’s 100 feet wide.  There’s an 80 feet rd too nearby.

    Saving this and heading down for breakfast.  I’m not sure  if I’ll be able to provide another real update between now and the plane, but I’ll probably want to kill some time in flight so I may write something long then.

     

  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 19 – Thursday morning in BLR

    Last night we went to a big and shiny new mall for dinner and drinks with one of the teams from work. Of course the entrance is a mess of smashed concrete and dirt, but once inside it was really very nice, and would fit in anywhere in the US. I wouldn’t have minded walking around some, but we were basically still working. 3 Monkeys Brewpub is big and nice inside, with shiny brewing equipment displayed centrally.

    There were at least a dozen of us, and I got a chance to talk to a few folks. I mentioned I like board and card games, and showed how to play No Thanks, though we couldn’t play since the ziplock that held the chips broke open and they got separated from the cards. But Shanib is a wizard with card tricks and impressed us all.

    There were lots of spicy tapas dishes, a coordinated mix of veg and non-veg for those with various food restrictions. Also there were pitchers of a good IPA.

    The ladies talked them into changing the music from pretty crappy 80’s music to dance music, and there was a little bit of dancing before we cleared out at the usual 11pm. David and I shared a tuktuk because we are both staying in Indiranagar and we ended up in a blinged out one with an LCD screen and stereo system.

    When I got back I decided to wash the clothes I was wearing so that I’d have one more set for Saturday. I’ll have enough time after dinner friday night to go back to the hotel, shower and change for my long travel day, so I wanted one more fresh set of clothes.

    This morning was Masala dosa, machine coffee and watermelon juice again. I took some videos on the commute to try to give an idea of what the roads are like. I just missed a picture of a guy on a scooter carrying 6 boxes of copier paper. David suggested we mount a gopro to someone’s scooter and turn it into a ride.

    Time to get some work done.

  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 18 – Wednesday in BLR

    Last night we went back to the place in UB city, the fancy mall next to the JW Marriott downtown. This time there were four of us, adding Carol and Dennis who arrived while I was on vacation. The idea was to bring Dennis somewhere that was new for him, but he had come on his last trip! Anyway we had a pile of Indian tapas under the pounding beat of house music… The place was much quieter last time, but I guess they turn up the music after about 10.

    There of us rode back with Dennis’s driver who had heard I went to Goa and told me that’s where he is from, specifically Vasco de Gama. Dennis thought I had switched to Spanish, but I explained it was a Portuguese colony. We talked a bit about my trip a little and he told us David is staying in a bad neighborhood, near a slum where Tamil people stay.

    I washed my last set of laundry in the sink and hung it out on the rubber clothesline on the balcony, then went down for an egg sandwich, cooked panini style with tomato, cucumber and onion.

  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 17 – Tuesday in BLR

    I got a decent night’s sleep overall, though there is a loud dog nearby that woke me up a few times. I booted my laptop and joined the Star Wars RPG for about a half hour, and it was nice to see friends. I still had some time to kill so I listened to the Dice Tower podcast, which amounted to another sort of grounding activity.

    Breakfast was tasty springy iddli and an omelette, with watermelon juice and coffee again. The two breakfast attendants are helpful but don’t have much English. One wears his cap flat and his black jeans with styled bleached parts low on his hips, like a rapper in white flip flops.

    Off to work

  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 16 – Monday back to work

    Last night was fun. David and I took a tuktuk to a nice college area and ate at Dice and Dine, a board game cafe. I taught him Splendor and we had fried breaded things that looked like mozzarella sticks but didn’t have lava inside. We also had a chicken tikka pizza. Both were good. David left a generous tip of over 500 since we had been there so long.

    I chatted with Jos and went to bed early, setting my alarm for 5 am to watch the Superbowl. By around halftime I was considering going back to bed as we were down 28 3. But I stuck with it and saw one of the best games of my life. One thing that was disappointing was that none of the commercials make it over here, so I saw one for a watch and one for UFC every single break. Also they have an annoying habit of overlaying crap on every channel taking up screen space like it was Headline News.

    Washed the Hampi sweat out of two shirts and last night’s smoke out of another and hung them up. Then breakfast in the hotel lobby of an omelette and a stuffed bread whose name I already forgot. Plus watermelon juice and coffee.

    David will bring the car by around 1110 so I am packing up the laptop and going to start planning my day.

    Had a good day back at work with a bit different perspective. The car that picked us up was a not nicer, a high end Suzuki, which I didn’t know was a thing.

    Dinner at Toit, downstairs this time in the non smoking section. Much nicer. Had two IPAs and two pizzas, one artichoke and sun dried tomatoes, the other a meat special. Took the last of both back to put in my mini fridge at an unexpectedly early hour of 11pm. Heading to bad after a long day.

  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 15 – Sunday back in Bangalore

    Finally got checked in at the promised noon, so I can’t complain I guess. I read the newspaper in the meantime. Once I got upstairs I knew I had made a good choice. This is a one bedroom apartment and there really isn’t anything wrong with it. I did some laundry in the sink, hung it on my clothesline on my private monkey-free balcony and had a nap.

    Next up, David will bring over my laptop and I will kick off a sync of the photos to the cloud, then we will go to the board game place where I hope to find something decent to teach him. The library doesn’t look great from the photos and most games are best with 3 but I expect it will go well. It looks like a decent area to hang out anyway and the roads seem good.

  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 14 – Hampi to Hospet

    Went out for one more walk just after sunset. Packing is annoying.

    I retreated pretty quickly from the vendors. It gets overwhelming after a while. I am on the roof one last time listening to the monkeys and the birds and the horns, and squeezing out the last drops of wifi before the ride to hospet. You may have noticed i sometimes spell it Hosapete. Both are correct, as many towns have been recently renamed. Bugs found me, ugh.

    Across the street for a known entity for calories because of the upcoming train ride. Veg biryani (120) and a bottle of water (25) even though i had such a late lunch i am not really hungry. I’m sure I can find some food anywhere, but before i get stuck overnight on anything i want to solve any problems i can in advance.

    Why is it knowing you overpaid for something and knowing by exactly how much you overpaid are different mental spaces?

    Wifi says i have two bars but photo uploads are taking a while. Here’s hoping the wifi in the blr airbnb is better

    I definitely can’t finish this food. Cashing out of here and the room and catching a ride. Posting this before i lose wifi. Here’s hoping i don’t spend all night writing for your entertainment and my sanity.

  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 14 – Saturday evening – last walk in Hampi

    Went out for one more walk just after sunset. Packing is annoying.

    I retreated pretty quickly from the vendors. It gets overwhelming after a while. I am on the roof one last time listening to the monkeys and the birds and the horns, and squeezing out the last drops of wifi before the ride to hospet. You may have noticed i sometimes spell it Hosapete. Both are correct, as many towns have been recently renamed. Bugs found me, ugh.

    Across the street for a known entity for calories because of the upcoming train ride. Veg biryani (120) and a bottle of water (25) even though i had such a late lunch i am not really hungry. I’m sure I can find some food anywhere, but before i get stuck overnight on anything i want to solve any problems i can in advance.

    Why is it knowing you overpaid for something and knowing by exactly how much you overpaid are different mental spaces?

    Wifi says i have two bars but photo uploads are taking a while. Here’s hoping the wifi in the blr airbnb is better

    I definitely can’t finish this food. Cashing out of here and the room and catching a ride. Posting this before i lose wifi. Here’s hoping i don’t spend all night writing for your entertainment and my sanity.

  • Hoyle goes to India – Day 14 – Saturday still in Hampi

    I booked an airbnb in blr for the whole week. It is right off 100 feet rd, by toit. I picked a higher-end place because work is paying for it and i need a little less self sufficiency while i am focused on getting my job done. I paid 61 usd per night plus fees and stuff, which seems absurdly expensive to me now. There were lots of places in the mid 30’s that looked nicer than where i am staying now, but i need less hassle, and i like the idea of being able to walk or take a very short tuk tuk back from dinner.

    I rode the bike a little ways down the river and realized that the ferry is not bike capable. There are stairs to get down to the water.

    I am now surrounded by a herd of goats, sitting under a ruin by the river. The goatherd whistles, clucks and brays at them to move them down into the grass again. He picks up a small stick or piece of grass and tosses it behind them to get them to move. They seem to follow his instructions pretty well.

    This is one of the many ones that i am calling “working ruins” since although people don’t sleep here, they do live here. There are clay bowls and fresh rice on the ground. The family that ate here is likely one of those down in and around the river.

    In case you ever end up in the early 1500s in vijayanagar , you probably can get a job as an elephant carver. They REALLY like elephants, and you would really only have to learn to carve that one thing.

    Time to park the bike and take the ferry.

    Turns out the ferry can take a single bike at a time, right on the nose, as long as everyone else sits at the back. I paid 50 since i didnt want to wait for the boat to fill up, but i probably got taken a little since the boat was already heading out.

    The other side is way more hippie drum circle dirty european. I walked around some beautiful rice paddies, scaring off lanky birds along the way. I had my pick of three restaurants but the Goan Corner sounded familiar. It is of course stuffed with unshaven european 20 somethings trying to impress each other with alternately loudly swearing or agreeing with a yeeaaahhhh. Modern philosophers, i guess.

    I ordered a cardamom lasse and alu achari, since i hadn’t seen achari on the menu here yet.

    The lasse is super tart but good. I am trying not to drink it fast before the food shows up. This is probably a nice place to hang out, but the lack of breeze and the flies conspire to prompt my departure as soon as i eat. Maybe i can get a ride back.

    Ok, that. Was. Amazing. Is it fair to call it my best meal in india, if i know i have a taste preference for it? Either way, i would need good food critic words that i don’t have so i will just say wow.

    Food is definitely cheap here, even in touristy areas. The australians said no foreigners are allowed to buy property in india. This keeps the prices cheap. We can’t buy cars either, only rent everything.

    270 for that meal

    A shortcut through the rice paddy cut the return journey significantly.

    I continued my trend of paying too much for other things, but i won’t say what they are because people will find out later. I don’thave the energy to argue over a couple of dollars, and these people need it more than i do.

    Back to the room after the packed 10rs ride across the river, and an overheard conversation of a good price for a rickshaw to hospet (200). Cooling off, considering whether to go out again or just rest pack and shower.

    Posting again, unedited